Having one-way doors in your makes is like a maze on steroids. Small mazes become much more difficult and can take much longer to solve.
I have wanted to add one way doors to the maze for ages, but I was endlessly worried about the design. The doors would have to be very sturdy. They would need to last for years. And most of all - they would need to be very reliable - always closing and always latching.
This door design has satisfied my ambitions. They work great and it looks like they should work great for years to come.
The quantities listed below are what is necessary to create 10 fully assembled doors. 10 doors are required to assemble the maze for Year 2010 (and beyond, I presume).
Materials for constructing the maze panels:
*The count of 60 furring strips is about 15-20 more than actually required because many boards will likely be too warped to be useful for constructing doors.
Item Cost per unit Quantity needed Total Cost furring strips (advertised as 1" x 3" x 8' [1 inch by 3 inches by 8 feet] in dimensions, but actually are 2.5"x0.75") $1.14 60* $68.40 #10-24 bolts, 1 1/2 inches long $1.18
(pack of 6)
7 $8.26 washer (any that fits the #10-24 bolt above) $5.00 (pack of 100) 1 $5 door spring $4.23 10 $42.30 gravity gate latch $4 10 $40 hinge $2 20 $40 #10 wood screws, 3/4 inches long $10 (package of 100) 1 $5 wood glue $4 1 $4 1 lb box of coarse-thread 1 1/4" drywall screws $5.00 1 $5.00 5lb box of size #6 x 1" self-drilling drywall screws (1" preferred, but 1-1/4" inch also okay) $27.00 1 $27.00 10' x 100' x 6mil black plastic sheeting (note: picture shows 20' plastic, but 10' is more than enough) $40 1 $40 size 8 screw eyes $8
(pack of 50)
Also note, the gussets in the instructions below: It is assumed that these are left-overs from the maze panel construction.
Note: Furring strips are advertised to be 1"x3" (by 8 feet) in dimensions, but the actual size is 2.5"x0.75".
The following tools will likely be needed: Circular saw, power drill(s), power screwdriver(s), staple gun(s), screw drivers, socket wrenches, and sharp scissors.
Next, cut another furring strip to 27" long. Drill 6 holes in the bottom of this board to align with the three boards above (two blocks and the door frame). Turn the door frame on its side and glue/screw the threshold into the door from the bottom using the coase-thread 1 1/4" drywall screws.
Attach the gravity gate latch. Make sure that the latch itself (the loose moving part) is arranged such that it will fall closed by gravity when the door is upright. Fasten with the screws provided with the latch. Put the latch all the way to the side of the door frame, close to the door.
Note: Do not use the provided wood screws for the latch bolt! The latch bolt will be under an enormous amount of stress, more than simple wood screws can handle. Using the #10-24 bolts to attach the latch bolt to the door is a must.
Note: Hinge must be nice and tight! You will need to experiment with just how tight depending on your type of spring. Make it tight enough so the door will reliably close by itself even if the door is at a slight angle forwards or backwards. If the spring still isn't tight enough, consider screwing in a block of wood (see the construction diagram) under the spring to increase the tension and provide a better angle for the spring to work.
After having done the first door, I recommend undoing the plastic and then using it as a template to cut out all of the other plastic sheets and the hinge slits.
One more hint, have a nice sharp knife handy (box cutter is good), and be ready to trim any left over plastic bits away from wherever they may occur.
Warped furring strips. Quite frightening!
Fully assembled doors without plastic.
Spring detail. Note the wooden block to increase tension. Also note the spring is attached with bolts (with washers on both sides)
Latch detail. Be careful to line up the striker bar with the latch before bolting the bar to the door.
A second view of the threshold bottom.
Wooden parts cut to size, ready for assembly.
Maze doors in progress. How exciting!
Measuring out the plastic template for wrapping the door.
Wrapping the door - part 1.
Wrapping the door - part 2.
Wrapping the door - part 3.
Fully assembled doors, stacked for storage.
Latch and handle.
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